1.
Most Festool tools are equipped with quick-connect
cords, which makes it easier to switch between
tools.
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2.
One vacuum hose and one electrical cord can
remain plugged into the vacuum, which makes
it faster to switch between tools. The domino
shares only a few similarities with a biscuit
jointer--one is that it really requires dust
control. Few biscuit joiners are equipped
with dust control, let along a system that
works this well. The Festool dust collection
system picks up ALL of the dust from this
tool.
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3.
Like a biscuit joiner, the cutter height of
the Domino can be adjusted for different thicknesses
of material, and it can be adjusted to cut
mortises in mitered material, too, like picture
framed casing. The lever on the right releases
the height adjustment. The lever on the left
releases the angle adjustment.
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4.
To set the height of the cutter, loosen
the height adjustment lever and the raise
the fence a little to relieve pressure on
the depth gauge. Slip the gauge into a pre-marked
detent, then press the fence down against
the gauge and retighten the locking lever.
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Everything on the tool works on the metric
system, but the gauges and adjustments are
so user-friendly that after working with
the tool for only one day, I actually started
learning the metric system!
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5.
Like a biscuit joiner, the fence can also
be adjusted at an angle, to cut mortises into
mitered joints. Detents on the angle gauge—at
45 and 22 1/2 degree, make it easy to reliably
re-set the fence at precisely the same angle.
And that's where the similarity to a biscuit
joiner ends completely.
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The Domino is NOT a biscuit joiner |
6.
The Domino doesn't cut a half-moon slot, like
a biscuit jointer. This tool cuts a mortise
for a real tennon. I wasn't surprised to find
that Festool supplies only one wrench with
the Domino. That's the degree to which Festool
engineers their tools. That little wrench
is all you need to change cutters.
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First, place the wrench under the motor
lock release button. Lift the wrench gently
and the pressure of the return springs will
back the motor out on the guide tubes.
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7.
Slide the motor completely off the guide
tubes. Notice that one tube is much longer?
Again, that's thoughtful engineering. The
longer tube makes it extremely easy to slip
the motor back on the guides.
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8.
To change bits, hold down the spindle lock
while wrenching the bit loose. All the bits
thread on to the spindle with minimal pressure,
just like a high-end lock mortiser. You don't
have to over tighten this bits—that's
why the wrench is so small! The direction
of rotation secures the bit on the spindle.
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9.
The Domino comes with a bit kit that includes
four cutters. Each bit is sized for pre-cut
tenons, also supplied with this tool in a
separate "systainer".
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For carpenters who are accustomed to
making their own tool boxes (I'm one of
them), the systainers might seem hokey at
first--like most plastic boxes. But these
'kits' are the best way to organize your
Festool tools and accessories, especially
the tenons for the Domino. I'm holding the
largest cutter, sized for 10mm tenons (more
on tennon sizes in a minute).
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10.
The size of the bit alone doesn't determine
the size of the tennon being cut. The real
secret to the smooth cutting action and versatility
of this tool is the oscillating movement of
the cutter.
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11.
Three easy-to-adjust switches control the
movement of the oscillating cutter, which
determines the size and shape of the mortise.
This top knob controls the width of the cut.
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12.
This small switch on the side of the tool
controls the depth of cut. Here I'm pressing
on the release lever with my left thumb and
adjusting the depth stop with my right finger.
The depth of each mortise must be a little
greater than the half the length of the tennon,
to allow for glue. Not surprisingly, the depth
stop takes that glue space into account.
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13.
As I said, the tool comes with an assortment
of pre-cut tenons, in five different sizes,
which fit precisely in the mortises. For easy
identification, each tennon partition is labeled
and matches the labeled cutters, which provides
another easy lesson in learning the metric
system. Labels for the pre-cut tenons also
provide a guide for making width and depth
adjustments.
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14.
Anyone who has worked with Festool tools knows
the degree of engineering that goes into these
products. The Domino is the best example to
date of why Festool makes some of the finest
tools in the business. Two spring loaded pins
on the face of the fence make it extremely
easy to use this tool without having to mark
any layout lines.
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15.
Use one pin to register the tool from the
outside of a 2x6 or 1x4. The second pin retracts
out of the way. Now cut the first mortise.
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16.
Move the tool over and set the first pin inside
and against the far edge of the first mortise,
which registers the tool for the second mortise.
Notice how the center line on the bottom of
the plate is aligned perfected with the second
mortise.
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Cutting the mating mortises often requires
moving the tool in the opposite direction.
That's when you use the retractable pin
on the other side. All the mortises will
match perfectly.
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17.
Two accessories help make this tool a dream
for fine woodworkers building high-end furniture
or for finish carpenters building job-site
doors, gates, stairs...the list is endless.
For cutting mortises in spindles, narrow rails,
or balusters, be sure to get the Trim Guide,
which slips onto the front of the Domino like
a tight glove.
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18.
Be sure to secure and tighten down the two
metal hooks on the back of the guide. First
loosen the lock knobs, then slip each hook
over the base plate into a perfectly matched
notch.
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19.
Turn the tool upside down and adjust the guides
to the width of your stock, being sure to
center the stock perfectly on the base plate.
Registration lines set in the base plate make
the job easy.
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20.
Always clamp your workpiece before using the
tool. With the Trim Guide, it's easy to cut
precise mortises into the edge of small stock.
Be sure to use the appropriate sized tennon,
and adjust the tool properly before making
the cut.
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21 & 22
Registering the tool to cut multiple mortises,
say in a rail or frame for a gate, or for
balusters, can't always be accomplished with
the onboard registration pins—they're
rarely in the right position for every job.
Festool provides another accessory that tames
this job too. The Cross Stop mounts to each
side of the Domino. Retractable pins ride
on this fine-adjustment fence, so that making
multiple mortises, in both directions, can
be accomplished without any layout lines.
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23.
If the layouts are too close for the Cross
Stop, and the onboard pins are spread too
far, cut the first and second mortises to
layout marks, then use the Cross Stop, registered
off the first mortise, to make additional
cuts. Here I've adjust the stop so the tool
will span one mortise at each cut.
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24.
Using the Cross stop and onboard pins ensures
that the mortises will line up precisely.
However, in sometimes operator error or the
nature of the workpiece might make alignment
difficult.
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In that case, after cutting the first
mortises, turn the width-adjustment knob
(photo #11) to the next larger size before
making succeeding mortises. That way, the
first mortises and tenons will register
the joint flush, and the succeeding tenons
will fall easily into their mortises, providing
a joint with plenty of strength.
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25.
I tested this tool out with a purpose in mind.
I've been wanting to build a new Crafstman
Style gate for my home, but I've shied away
from the task because of all the mortise-and-tenon
joinery required.
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With the Domino, I suspect
I can knock that pair of gates out in one
day, easy. After that…well, I've always
wanted to build a Mission Style chair for
my living room; and a screen door for… |
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Oh! I
almost forgot...MITERS. Here's something
a biscuit joiner can never
do--register a mitered joint perfectly flush
and perfectly aligned from
long point to short points.
With the Domino, rest one of the retractable
registration pins against the long point
of the miter. The other pin will retract.
I have the fence tilted up so it's easier
to see the pin on the long point of the
mite, but when making the cut, always lower
the fence so that the base of the tool isn't
resting on a worktable. After making the
first cut, move the tool and engage the
pin against the far shoulder of the first
mortise. Do the same on the second leg of
the miter.
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The
retractable pin layout on the Domino
is perfect for installing tenons in
1/4 material. In 1/6 material the
tenons won't as close to the short
point, but the miter will nonetheless
lock together without any wiggle.
Because each
tenons fits snugley in its mortise,
I found it helpful to increase the
horizontal size of the last mortise.
Flipping the green switch on top of
the tool (see #11) to the next size
tenon makes it easier to fit the tenons
and the miter together. The first
tenon still registers the miter together
short point to long point; both tenons
lock the two pieces perfectly flush.
For pre-assembling
mitered frames or trim, nothing could
be easier. |
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