Watch a video testing the precision of the new mitersaw from Festool.

Then read more details, below.

The first thing you'll notice about the new Kapex from Festool is that you can back your saw stand right up to a wall--or even a window! The dual, stationary rails extend over the front of the saw base. Unlike the Hitachi version, the Kapex rails do not slide to the back of the saw. Because the rails are stationary and set wide apart, I found the saw cut smoother and straighter than any 10 in. miter saw I've ever used, and much better than a 12 in. saw.

Though it looks heavy, with a honeycomb magnesium-alloy base, the Kapex weighs only 47 lbs., making it the lightest 10-in. sliding compound saw on the market.

The switch and safety trigger are also unusual. First, the handle is centered on the machine to keep feed pressure in line with the cut, which minimizes deflection or racking on the rails. Also, until the safety trigger is squeezed, the saw can not be lowered, or the guard retracted. The motor will not start unless the safety trigger is completely engaged and the safety switch is also depressed. I found the combination of switch and trigger, plus their position high on the handle, cumbersome compared to other saws with T-handles.

The bevel lock is at the top rear of the rails and easy to reach. Flip the lock lever up to release the guide-rail assembly. Like the Bosch miter saw, you can set the stop knob so the saw swings 45degrees to the left and stops vertically at 0 in the center. A second position on the stop knob allows the saw to swing 45 degrees in both directions. The last position allows the saw to swing 47 degrees, plus or minus.

Dust collection is also better on the Kapex than any other miter saw I've used. The two-piece collection port works best when cutting on-the-flat. When cutting material vertically, like baseboard, the lower rubber dust scoop hangs up on baseboard taller than 3 1/2 in. But a convenient spring clamp makes it easy to remove the rubber scoop.

This saw also does a great job of cutting dados--with excellent depth-of-cut control. Like most saws, the work piece must be positioned and supported by an accessory fence or blocking, beneath the center of the blade. Pulling the green lever forward (above right) locks the depth of cut; twisting the knob on top of the lever reliably adjusts the depth of cut.

The Kapex is also equipped with an accurate dual-line adjustable laser that casts extremely thin lines. I found that when cutting tall baseboard (over 3 1/2 in.), the laser wasn't able to cast a line on both sides of the blade at the measurement mark on top of the material, something related to the forward position of the saw motor and a minor inconvenience. On shorter material, especially crown molding, the lines are perfect.

For cutting on-the-flat, these laser lines are better than all the other lasers I've 'tried' and abandoned. In fact, the lines are so crisp that they don't interfere with my sharp 2 1/2- lead pencil lines. And, for precise cuts, the laser is so reliable that I found myself making only one false cut.

Though both lasers are adjustable, mine were almost spot on right out of the box. I was able to cut self-return caps, and even a four-sided pendent, with perfectly parallel opposing miters, something I've never been able to do on any other saw. Because of the stationary forward rails, and the wide spread of the rails, the saw has no deflection when cutting bevels on the flat; even compound miters are easy to cut smooth and straight, without applying pressure to counter the blade's torque.

		Adjusting the laser lines is a snap. Both the right and the left laser can be adjusted individually, so that the lines are right on the tips of your blade teeth, and both can be adjusted so the 'toe' of each line is perfectly parallel to the cut.

Personally, I prefer to cut crown using a continuous sacrificial stop. I find that long pieces tend to move around a bit if the material is secured with individual short stops. But these stops are super handy and they're easy to set up. I'll probably use them for small jobs. Beneath the left-hand crown stop, notice the angle finder slid into it's nest in the saw base.